

You can be too close to a door to close it.
so 1b is 1 butt or approximately 481l.


I didn’t say profitable. I said more profitable. As in losing less money.


Every video card that’s plugged into an AI data center starts losing money the second it’s powered on. It might actually be more profitable to mine crypto.


If they close the strait while you’re in the middle of it, are you stuck?


Have I got a video for you!
Edit: with narration https://youtu.be/fPF4fBGNK0U
PSSST
“It’s pronounced PS/2”


That’s the same code.


but in practice it’s best to get a good electrician to run a new circuit from the box in even somewhat recent construction
The photo you linked was a dedicated circuit installed by a licensed electrician. Mistakes/freak accidents happen. As I said in another comment, think of how many millions of households use 1440W space heaters indoors and don’t burn down. That’s what TC is advocating here. By and large, it’s completely safe.


Right, but people use space heaters all the time inside their homes. This is even less dangerous because people tend not to park their cars on carpet and EVs store most of that energy instead of using it to heat up the drapes.
If we’re worried about pulling 12A out of a 15A outlet, there is much more to be worried about before we get to cars.
As TC has covered this before, consumers are clueless (and cheap) about extension cords.
Only a danger if the cord is tightly coiled and drops enough voltage to get warm, but not enough to trip the car’s protection circuit. A lot has to go wrong for this to be a major problem.
Also all extension cords are wrapped in fire retardant plastic, so it’d likely melt, short out, blow the breaker, and nothing would happen.
Electrical code is wrapped in many layers of safety. You really have to try to hurt yourself.


Electrify America accepts credit cards, and while Tesla technically requires an app, once your card is saved, you just plug in and it figures out the rest.


Standard outlets are rated for 15A. The vehicle is already de-rating by 20% (to 12A) per NEC requirements for any appliance running for more than 3 hours continuously (which is how you get 1800W hair dryers but only 1440W space heaters).
Assuming code was followed for your house wiring, nothing is at risk there.
Then it’s just a matter of buying the right extension cord. Note that the vehicle will refuse to charge if the input voltage drops below a certain level (in my car, I think it’s around 110V).
So you only have to worry about a 10V drop at 12A or 120W of heat dissipation. Assuming all of this happens inside your extension cord, you just need to make sure you don’t coil it up too tightly (or, better, don’t use such a cheap cord).


I thought VR/AR would be farther along. There was a pitch 10 years ago that VR would be the “final platform” in that anything a phone, TV, tablet, or computer could do could be easily emulated in VR.
Unfortunately it’s still all walled gardens. Also nobody wants to wear that shit for more than an hour.


My whole friend group stopped trusting Meta a few years ago, so I got everyone on Matrix-Synapse instead of WhatsApp.
I just set it up on my homeserver. Everyone just calls it “Element” and has no idea how it works, but the UI is familiar and easy to use.
Trying to work on Pixelfed, but most interesting photos just get shared on Matrix anyway.
The fuses protect the lines upstream to the next protection device. That doesn’t mean every house could max out their breaker at the same time. Just like you can’t pull the max amperage on each circuit breaker in your panel without popping the mail breaker.
To answer your question, most American homes I’ve seen have 240V at 200A. Some older homes have 100A.