Case closed, boys

I’ve never seen the movie. Is the Chihuahua, by chance, from Beverly Hills?

A stranger on the internet took the time to write out some really helpful constructive advice to something you’re struggling with, and you’re blowing them off with a pedantic clarification? If you really don’t think there’s anything to take away from that comment because they didn’t get your exact example perfectly right, that could be another reason people are trying to escape conversations with you. It doesn’t sound like you want to have them.

This is some phenomenal advice and I’m afraid the person you gave it to isn’t going to appreciate it in the moment but I want you to know that it’s giving me some thinking.

Seems like people got your questions answered. Just wanna say that those machines (Prusas) are very nice, and not generally cheap, so even if it was a throwaway for someone make sure to get em a 12 pack or something! That’s an awesome gift!

Someone else mentioned gridfinity, that was my first thought too. You can probably find modules for all of the things you listed already made and ready to print.

Once you start with gridfinity, though, you will never stop.

Re: dry. I’m convinced PLA doesn’t care about moisture. Watched a video of a guy that soaked a roll in a tub of water overnight, then printed off the roll with it still in the tub. Looked exactly the same as it did before the soak.

Mileage may vary of course but ever since then I’ve been leaving my PLA out and it’s never once given me trouble (the infused ones a little bit).

I find that shaking my hands frustratedly while repeating the placeholder word at a higher frequency helps people understand what I’m trying to say to talk to me later

Most questions that get posted are the same question but slightly different situation. “Why does my first layer look bad”, “what is causing this weird noise”, “how do I diagnose this error”.

Your use case is interesting. I’ll remember it each time I see an update.

Oh ok, I misunderstood some details. That makes more sense.

I’ll be here in a year or two for your updates!

I remember your first post. Glad that you are still working on putting this workshop together. Excited to read about what you come up with.

If I remember correctly, you use a 3d scanner to get close-enough measurements of your workspace, and design around that? Is there any chance of us getting some pictures of your completed space once things are buttoned up, or would it be too much of a privacy concern? I’m super into confined, efficient workspaces and I’d love to see what kind of solutions you’ve come up with for your specific needs.

Sounds like a plan!

If you have the time, check out a “intro to Klipper” video or something similar, just to get an idea of how useable it is, see if you’re interested. I’m here if you have any questions 👍🏽

Is there any advantage to going the klipper route?

The advantages are innumerable of you are a tinkerer (it looks like you are). If you just want your printer to print stuff and that’s that, marlin is fine, but if you want to get serious about tuning and modifying your printer, Klipper is an inevitability.

Think about the QOL improvement that octoprint provided over running your SD card back and forth from PC to printer. Klipper is that x1000. Write macros to automate things like filament swaps, chamber heating, build plate clearing. Change every aspect of any behavior of the printer by modifying a .cfg file (rather than recompiling marlin firmware.bin files). There’s plugins for Cura to send your g-code directly to the printer (with octoprint you save the file to your PC then upload to octo, with Klipper there’s just a button in Cura to send directly to the printer and start printing).

In short, the only reason to use marlin is “it came on the printer and I don’t have the knowledge to set up Klipper”. Klipper is just better in every way. It’ll take you a couple hours to set up (you have a popular with lots of premade configurations available online), and from the moment you get it going, you’ll wonder what took you so long.

PM me if you have any questions.

I know this is a couple days old, but I have a heavily modified Neptune 3 (non pro) and it needed the bed springs that replaced the plastic spacers. It was very uneven within a month or two of owning it and was constantly shifting.

Bought a pack of springs for maybe 10 bucks on Amazon and, while not as permanent as solid metal spacers and maybe loctite, it lasts much longer than the plastic spacers between needing a relevel, and being able to fine tune it with a screwdriver is a must.

I don’t think that Cura is smart enough to cut STL files apart like that. My guess is that a program like blender would be best to do this, make a shape the size of your printer’s build volume (or slightly smaller), put the part you want to print inside of the shape, then remove everything else.

I’m not familiar with blender but that’s the work flow I would approach with.

I like to balance things in absolutely awful places. Like I’ll have a platter full of minis that are ready to be painted or a tray full of hundreds of tiny electric components and I’ll set them down on top of a closed water bottle??? Why???

Actually me. I see someone set something down and my brain says, “when Bill asks where his wallet is, we’ll know where it’s at! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽”

Bill never asks where his wallet is, and I don’t know where mine is.

I see, I did not realize the range of different resin materials. I was led to believe most behave pretty similarly.

I’ve never had the privilege of paying a CMON game, but the sets I’ve seen in stores seem so enticing.

I hope you find a resin that is both affordable and meets your needs! Eventually I’ll probably want something more bendy too, once I get better at painting I probably won’t want my guys to break.

I’ve only been printing for a short time, so sorry if I seen ignorant. But I’m assuming you aren’t a fan of the ABS-like resins? Minis are the bulk of what I’ve printed so far, I’ve done them all in Anycubic grey abs like. A handful of them have taken a topple off the printer shelf (~6 feet / 2m) and so far the only things that have broken are things I don’t think a different material would have stood up to anyways (read: large objects attached with a tiny surface area, warhammer heads, a hand holding a glass orb, I think one cloaked arm). Everything has super-glued back together very easily (though they’re all still unpainted, if they’d been painted the seam would likely be much more visible).

I had a small model (not quite mini sized) printed in standard resin that fell from a much shorter distance and broke in like 3 places so it’s definitely more flexible/ durable than that.

It’s also like $15 USD/L…

Mono 6k’s

Yup, that’s my exact printer. Haha.

+8k resin is almost always marketing wank.

Yeah, that’s why I figured a company that is willing to make up mostly BS to sell their stuff would jump at the opportunity to advertise an actual perk (lower lift height).

Yes, having a system where the manufacturer recommended settings actually work and work well is wild coming from FDM printing. With filament they’re like “uh print somewhere around this temp I guess 👍🏽” what retraction settings? How fast can I print? Flow %? Granted this all varies dramatically from printer to printer so I know why they don’t try to give a profile, but it’s so nice that resin printing you’ve got a perfectly working baseline that you only really need to fine tune if you want.