Use your small printer to build a slightly larger printer, and then use that printer to build a slightly even larger printer. Then print this

I suppose if you’ve somehow come to the conclusion that testing things does not provide useful information (how do you suppose the people you are asking your question to have come to their conclusions?), I won’t try to persuade you otherwise. I’ll continue screwing around with no understanding of what I’m doing, I guess.

I’m sorry, maybe I’m not phrasing this correctly…

Just because one print works doesn’t mean it will work on every print.

I never said, “test on one print”. I said to test it. Test it on an object with many color changes, test it on a model with a ton of one color and only a small amount of another, test it with different infill percentages, test it on a prototype of something that’s going to be really important so you know how it will work in the end.

Everybody is going to have their own specific answer as to what works well and what is and isn’t necessary, the only way to find the right answer for you is to test things and figure it out yourself. The only way to get things 100% right 100% of the time is leave it how it is now and stop messing with it. Anything beyond that is going to vary on a case by case basis, and you’ll only understand what settings to change when, if you toy around with test prints.

I have been printing for many years. I understand that, “what works on one won’t always work on another”. Which is why I find it odd that you seem to be looking for an answer that works for one person, and therefore must work for every person, for every print. The only one-size-fits-all is going to be the most wasteful in material and time (purge tower and purging filament). If you want to cut back on what the manufacturer/ slicer devs are saying “this will most likely work”, you’re going to have to do some experimenting yourself.

That’s why I suggested testing it and seeing the results for yourself, not necessarily “turn it off and yolo”.

If you know firsthand what the outcome of changing the settings is, you can make a decision on your own based on your own experience when to use what settings.

If you have a printer that has these features, try it out and see the differences for yourself. There’s probably a reason why it’s set up the way it is, but sometimes the differences are so minute that you don’t notice or care. If you run a few prints and the color swaps look like garbage, you’ll have a better understanding of why the printer and firmware are set up that way. If it turns out fine, congratulations, you’ve made a personal improvement to your machine!

He certainly can be off-putting. The two videos related to this topic were pretty good though, imo

I know he does. I was saying that the code getting taken down from GitHub would be nowhere near the “end of the battle”. He would just rehost it elsewhere.

Yeah, I don’t think Louis Rossman has the means to host his own website or upload it somewhere else.

The former poster was incorrect in saying he was asking for donations (he was asking for people to say they would donate, if the need were to arise)

However, a few hours ago, he uploaded a followup video stating he has uploaded the code in question himself, and is inviting Bambu Labs to challenge him legally. In the video he did mention where donations could be made but I don’t recall him specifically asking for donations for this particular cause.

I used to catch myself doing this a lot. Something will happen and I’ll tell myself, literally make the decision, “I’m going to be mad about this all day.”

I’ll purposefully be frustrated in everything I do and be mad at myself for it.

Until something happens that actually requires my full, un-frustrated attention, and if it takes long enough I’ll “forget” that I was “supposed” to be mad?

Sometimes I’ll even try to get mad again.

Once I recognized the behavior it was easier to stop it, but I do still catch myself sometimes reminding myself that “you’re mad right now, stop laughing 😠”

I think it comes from Spanish-speaking Brits, or maybe a British Yoda, that’s why it’s “init, scripts?” and not “scripts, init?”

I literally don’t even know what systemd is, I think I’ve seen it in the Resource Manager 😅

Shout-out to the open source community and Steam for making Linux gaming so simple that even I can do it

Edit: I now have a passing understanding of what systemd is, and understand there is a Holy War to be fought between those in support of it, and those who prefer more modular init scripts. To arms!

Me, who knows next to nothing about how my 3 Linux machines work: *taking notes*

“How much is too much” really depends on the person, but I’ll venture to say that a single shared joint a day is not enough to induce scromiting in anyone remotely tolerant.

Sounds like a thing we talked about in a philosophy class I took.

You have a room, with nothing but a blank piece of paper in it. There is one thing in the room.

You fold the paper. There is now a crease in the paper. It is still in the room.

How many things are in the room?

A “crease” (like the corner of a table) is a distinct thing, yet it is part of the paper. There is no increase in mass in the room. Yet the crease remains.

If that’s what they’re going with, that’s much more approachable, assuming it has most of everything you need to adapt most printers.

I wonder, what is the difference between the dedicated prusa kit, and the standard one? If the normal one is meant to convert any printer, why would one go for the more expensive set?

Has anyone seen any recent pricing for the standalone kit? In a video a while back I remember them estimating around $250 for the base hardware and $40-60 for each nozzle. I’m hoping that $250 base price hasn’t gone out the window. I was planning on building a voron 2.4 later this year with the INDX in mind.

$10–$15/hour

~30–60 minutes per day

So, if someone is working every day, they have the opportunity to make between $150-450 a month…

Aren’t shitty scams supposed to at least be enticing? Who’s falling for this shit? Why’d they start entering the fediverse?

Can you please upload some screenshots of the model you’re printing in the slicer, and the related settings? That’s really odd behavior.

It isn’t an “infill” setting. It’s “top/bottom” settings. I don’t what slicer you’re using, but every slicer should give you the option to set the number of top layers and bottom layers.