I hate them so much for all the reasons you mention and a few more.
But there are times that I prefer them over a 2-3 minute vidoe padded to 12-15 minutes for monetization.
I don’t like to say it to anyone but my partner and my kids.
I like to show it though. And let’s be honest, does saying it really mean that much, if you don’t show it?
Yeah, it seems like “developer mode” is pretty much just “old fashion mode”. If they do it right, it looks like a solution to me.
But doing it right includes making it offially supported.
I’m hoping all the noise makes BL rethink sone choices before the new firmware goes live.
At best, they will change their mind enough that we don’t loose anything significant, and we can just keep our printers.
Then all we have to consider is if we trust BL enough to buy more printers from them. Or even if we want to buy their filament.
3D printing is not as strong as injection molding the same material in the same shape.
But you can beef it up. You can 3D print stuff much bulkier than injection molding can do.
If you really want to, you can also use stronger materials.
Also, even the weakest cheapo stuff you can get is plenty strong for most stuff people are printing.
Knowing about what makes a part strong or weak helps a lot.
This is the answer. They are bridges to support the next layer.
It is a stainless steel nozzle, but the real problem is that it’s not just the nozzle, it’s either “hotend” with cooling ribs etc, with lots of fiddling to connect wires etc, or “complete hotend” that also comes with a fan so more of the wires are already connected.
See https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-hotend-p1-series?variant=40923060797576
I wish they did like Prusa where you can also buy assembly, but they have one that is basically an adapter so you can use any regular cheap nozzle.
It’s a P1S. A nozzle that is hard/cumbersome to change is 15 USD. One that is almost as easy to change as a regular nozzle is 35 USD.
Add shipping costs, maybe taxes, the fact that they can have crazy delays…
I remember on my old printer I’d by a bag of nozzles even if I didn’t need them. But on a Bambu… Yeah, I’d try to salvage the nozzle too.
Forever is a long time. I’m sad I won’t get upgrades, but I didn’t expect any when I bought it. I’ll be fine for a while.
When I feel that big an itch for a new thing, I’ll buy a new thing. Probably something Prusa branded.
I assume it does. If I had a big problem with that, I wouldn’t have connected it to the internet in the first place.
However, the talk about disabling printers without this update makes me think I should probably block it.
I wouldn’t buy a new Bambu now. But the one I have has a LAN only option, and i assume it will keep it as long as I don’t upgrade my firmware.
I don’t see how they would disable my printer without updating firmware. Maybe I should block all internet communication just to be sure.
But this particular RFID has some sort of encryption-something, that means that other companies can’t make them.
I don’t like it, but since I can still use other brands without the convenience of RFID tags, it’s not a deal-breaker.
I care. I bought Bambu anyway, because there’s a LAN only option. I enabled it today. I am also not going to upgrade firmware.
- Are you two ladies from Londen?
- Wales
- Okay, are you two whales from London?
If he’s anything like me, that time would be spent on ranting about microwave ovens.
That is how the first ones (that I saw) worked. I was so happy when I saw that not only do they still exist, my local grocery store started selling them. I bought my second one a few days ago.
I hear many (different) attempts at saying it the Turkish way.
And to be fair, neither Germany or Japan is the name of an animal.
But in both cases they need landlords, right?
A little tip for when you try out different methods: Check the weight of the silica gel, to check your progress.
For example: Take a container from the AMS, weigh it. Give it an hour in a food dehydrator. Weigh it. Repeat until weight no longer drops. Give it a couple hours or more in an oven that’s at least 100 °C. Then weight it again.
Now you know how long it takes in the dehydrator, and how well it works.
Later you can weigh it again, and compare to the weight out of the oven. Now you know how much water is in there.