I really enjoy the split spacebars. I use those for layers: hold for a navigation layer on one, for some UI and function keys on the other. With the remapping software Keyd. If the split spacebars are not a thing for you, then I’m inclined to think the Shinobi is nicer, given the palmrest and sound profile.

Nice info. Thanks!

A colleague of mine is very happy with the Punkt phone.

I often make use that various non-windows package managers allow removing things in bulk.

Note to self: it’s for Windows.

Super nice project!

The custom keycaps, that’s a dream. I’d love if there was a good method for that. I laser cut my board myself, too (but at a mkser space), and would love to make custom keycaps for it.

To speed up the process and perhaps get less errors, could you possibly do all of them at once?

Since you cut the plate, you have the drawing, so you could place the legends appropriately on that, then place keycaps on all switches and press play?

Maybe you could start with small dots on four corner keycaps in one go to calibrate/not risk bad prints on a full keycap set.

That’s a great question - sorry for the slow reply! I bought some from a mechanical keyboard online shop that had a sale, but maybe you can find some as cheap elsewhere.

I bought SPRiT MX Multistage 55 M1 and SPRiT MX Extreme 45s Slow springs. I’m thinking I’ll try the 55g ones first. They were just really cheap, so I bought the 45g, too.

I like the U4Ts (there is a also a silent version called “U4Ts”, just FYI.)

I haven’t tried a ton of switches either, but the U4Ts are the tactile switches I have tried that I like the most for their noticeable tactility. And I’ve been using 68g, which maybe even hides some tactility. So I’ve bought some 55g two-staged springs I want to swap to.

If you don’t know it, then there is an immense collection of switch reviews which also covers the U4Ts: https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores/blob/master/U4T (62g).pdf

What have you tried that you didn’t like? And did you consider swapping springs in some that you do like? Then you can those as light as you’d like.

Did you try Gazzew U4T?

I think you can get those key placements on the Shura? If you look at this layout options image and think to apply the green and blue swaps, isn’t that HHKB on all but the bottom row?

Perhaps the TEX Shura?

It has a number of options for keys on various positions. The bottom row also works for some “unsopprted” combinations of keys, e.g. With 2u spacebars and different mods on the outside.

Fair warning though: using the trackpoint requires either using the standard keycaps, or cutting into your own. Similarly the arrow key cluster uses 0.8u keys, meaning you need to shave off parts of regular keycaps. I’ve down this to use Cherry profile caps.

You’ll do that plenty in a lot of the hotswap boards, too. You typically have to place the PCB yourself, plus you’ll have fun with foam and tape under it, swichtes and keycaps on top. And then you can start modding your switches, lubing and filming them. There’s lots to do, but there aren’t that many different, seperate components once the PCB is assembled for you.

I’d say next level after that requires soldering – and it seemed like in another comment you weren’t too keen on that?

You nailed it, I think!

I feel you on the right Shift! It’s optional on the TEX Shura which I’ve used recently, and I of course went for the u1, too. I’m surprised how often I reach that far with my pinky! But it looks nice :D

PS. for some nice out-of-time keyboard and computer shots, I can recommend the show Loki. They have so sparked my desire to find a 4:3 display and build an softly curved, keyboard and display-integrated pc case with an orange epoxy resin lacquer finish. How one can dream.

For me, the left and right also act as layers, if held and something else is pressed. Then I can access a e.g. navigation from the homerow.

Super nice! I really like the layout design and the overall metal and wood look!

Does it have on-board remapping? If so, maybe reset them with the Razer software, see if that makes a difference. Maybe somebody did something silly.

If not, then I’d disassemble it, connect to a pc and see what happens when you connect the pins of the switches of the keys that don’t work. Do you get a response? Then it sounds like a bad switch. If not, then I suppose it’s the pcb.

What keys don’t work?

:D

Any text editor and a sheet of paper saying

Please type your name and press Enter

Maybe Vim so noone quits it by accident.

I haven’t tried the profile. Do you think it’s for you? I think that’s important to think about. If you don’t know if you like keycaps with dished tops, maybe you could try some other, cheaper variant first.

Same amount of soldering, bit you can also use very cheap rivets. I’ve hotswap 4 different commercial boards with them, and it works great – and for a fraction of the price.

I wrote up some notes here: https://github.com/humanplayer2/mkmods/blob/main/AnnePro2/RivetHotswap.md