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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 11th, 2023

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  • True, I’ve seen many molten rolls of filament because of overly warm ovens. Make sure it doesn’t go over 60C and you’re good. Mine is good, has a little overshoot when heating up, but if you let it warm up first and then put the filament, it generally stays very close to 60C. I havent had problems. Other ovens - be careful. Food dehydrator is better, but if you don’t have it, you may as well buy an actual filament dryer. Desicant beads didn’t work for me. They do the trick of maintaining the dryness, but if you have ANY built up moisture in your filament, the beads won’t do much.



  • As others have mentioned:

    • Dry your filament. Stick it in the oven for 2+ hours on minimal settings. If you have a fan in the oven, even better. edit: use the printer bed, see comments below
    • Tune your printer. Do a temperature tower with your dried filament. Lower temperatures might improve quality at the expense of lower layer adhesion. Do a flow calibration routine. Overextrusion can also have effects like this.
    • Slow down the printing. Increase minimal layer time, which might have an effect. If it’s original E3, it has relatively poor part cooling, which can be compensated by slowing things down.

    Nothing wrong with Ender 3, if you thinker enough, you can get results as good as any other printer. But it may require tinkering. The model that you’re printing is difficult with FDM printers of any kind. It has thin, delicate parts with steep overhangs. It can look better, but it’s gonna be hard to achieve. Resin printers are definitely a better choice for this, but you use what you have.




  • I did it and I’m very satisfied with the result. Though I went full diy and ordered parts individually. I did all of the printed parts from recycled PET from bottles which I recycled myself. The rest I ordered from aliexpress. I have a previous version, didn’t get around to update. I made an adaptor for herome gen 6 hotend holder and made it with mostly stock e3d v6 hotend. I just added a cht nozzle. Don’t need anything else. But the best mod IMO is the dual z axis which I recommend even without mercury conversion.

    Edit: I did it on ender 5, have no clue what’s the difference on other printers.







  • Shape binder is what you need. Shape binder can be used to reference geometry from another body. What I would do is I’d make one pocket on the main body. Then select another body and make it an active body. Then select the pocket you made (the surface or the edge) and create a shape binder (part design). This will effectively import the selected feature from the first body and you can reference it from second body. Make sure you hide the first body, as it somehow gets in the way of shape binder, for some reason. Repeat for third body.