• 5 Posts
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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: September 30th, 2023

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  • Mine is just this weird lounge with a bit of a liminal space vibe. Like in vegas one of the main strip themed casinos had this weird setup where you go in the bathroom doorway, but after the doorway and before the actual bathroom were these weirdly fancy lounges.

    Anyway sometimes my brain goes in screensaver mode and I’m just sitting in the lounge and the people that go by irl sit in the lounge and eventually leave through the continue path.













  • I sort of did this today. I was testing what each setting in orca slicer’s scarf seam section did and I had the scarf flow at 0.6 and forgot I even had scarf seam on but some seemingly random features ended up as disconnected lines and I blew through like half a roll in calibration prints that came out flawless or near flawless before I realized


  • Grass@sh.itjust.worksto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldWhat happened here??
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    1 month ago

    I’m shocked at how much it recovered. I’m also glad I’m not the only one still running an ender 3.

    Do you have a multi meter? You might have to adjust the little screw for the y motor. I’ll see if I can find the instructions for that. The wires in my pic are from the uart mod so I can do it in software.

    Edit: people called it vref adjustment. You want it low enough that the motors don’t overheat but high enough that it can move the bed and the print without skipping. If you have an aftermarket board the procedure might be different and you might be able to do it in settings.

    Also if you haven’t already, I would also recommend unscrewing the wires one by one in the green screw terminals and clip off the soldered ends and strip off enough to put the bare wire back in and screw them down to avoid the fire risk. Crimped ferrules would be better but that needs a crimper and the ferrules.

    1000030885

    Here’s what can happen with the stock soldered wire ends: 1000030886 And I caught this one as the electronics were off the printer and outside of my old ikea lack enclosure. If you dont notice it it could be really bad.


  • Grass@sh.itjust.worksto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldPHA Filament
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    1 month ago

    D3d sigma prototyping abs. I was expecting it to be shit but it had no problems at all. It’s actually my remaining stock from the ender 3v2 era and it still works as expected. It’s still available but it could be totally different now for all I know. Several brands became big names now but d3d seemingly became less known. They also had transparent abs which I previously bought for voron toolhead leds but it was out of stock when I was looking at the available colours the other day.

    The only recent comparison I can do is the eryone black abs I bought this month that I swear is just stinky petg. Super glossy vaguely waxy feel, very stringy and oozey.


  • Grass@sh.itjust.worksto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldPHA Filament
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    1 month ago

    Can’t even get it where I live but I’ve been wanting to try it. Those prices are bonkers though and it better be really good to justify it. I get my cleanest prints off of $14 cad per 1kg roll ABS and its really hard to justify the things the more expensive filaments when they print like shit after doing every calibration