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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 18th, 2023

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  • The etymology might help break down some of the nuance here

    According to etymonline the etymology for expatriate (often shortened to expat) is:

    “to banish, send out of one’s native country,” 1768, modeled on French expatrier “banish” (14c.), from ex- “out of” (see ex-) + patrie “native land,” from Latin patria “one’s native country,” from pater (genitive patris) “father” (see father (n.); also compare patriot). Related: Expatriated; expatriating. The noun is by 1818, “one who has been banished;” main modern sense of “one who chooses to live abroad” is by 1902.

    Immigrate, is similar, but is more used to describe moving to a place:

    “to pass into a place as a new inhabitant or resident,” especially “to move to a country where one is not a native, for the purpose of settling permanently there,” 1620s, from Latin immigratus, past participle of immigrare “to remove, go into, move in,” from assimilated form of in- “into, in, on, upon” (from PIE root *en “in”) + migrare “to move” (see migration). Related: Immigrated; immigrating.

    The closer synonym to expatriate would probably be emigrate, the opposite of immigrate, to leave a place.

    As to why one might use expatriate over emigrate; consider the sentence “I’m an American immigrant”. It’s kind of unclear if you’re trying to say that you are an American that has migrated to another country (as in “I’m an American immigrant living in Brussels”*), or someone who has migrated to America (as in “I’m an American immigrant from Slovakia”). Using expatriate removes the ambiguity: “I’m an American expatriate” and makes it clear that the speaker is trying to convey where they are from.

    * technically, using emigrant here would be more clear, but English is a lawless and lazy language


  • I mostly switched for the interface, it feels far more modern and easy to navigate compared to Cura and Prusa (while retaining all but the most bleeding edge features from each). Still not perfect, but I’ve found it to be leagues better at managing and swapping between multiple printers/ nozzles/ materials. It has native calibration tools for everything from temperature towers to flow rates and pressure advance. Plus it plays very nicely with Klipper. I haven’t used it a bunch on account of not being wholly set up for it, but multi color printing is also super easy. It’s kind of dumb, but I appreciate that updates actually update the app instead on installing a new instance (that I’ll have to go uninstall later, looking at you Cura) so that my “send to print utility” button in Fusions always just works. Updates also seem more substantial with meaningful features (things like scarf joints to hide layer lines come to mind), you can very much feel the love that community has poured into it. It’s open source software in all the best ways possible.

    I was pretty sold after Teaching Tech’s video last year, but a number of other channels (Lost in Tech comes to mind as well) have also done Orca slicer videos if you’re looking for reasons to give it a try.







  • Linking the patents listed, because I’m struggling to understand what technologies are spelled out in them (I’m taking my best guesses here, so feel free to correct me if I’m misreading something, because I probably am):

    • 9421713- purge towers apparently
    • 9592660- heated beds/ removable build plates
    • 7555357- something to do slicing workflow/ path generation
    • 9168698 / 10556381- detecting that force has been applied to the extruder

    Given how broad these are, this case could have some less than pleasant ripple effects on the rest of the 3d printing community, like opening the doors to drag ultimaker/ prusa into court over random commonplace stuff.

    The specific patent links seem to be broken. All return 403. Here are functional alternatives.







  • Chiming in to say that you absolutely don’t want that in your bedroom. Not sure how ubiquitous the experience is, but if you’re ever done a titration experiment in a chemistry class (the one where you add one solution into another a couple drops at a time), your body’s response to being exposed to resin fumes (as well as VOC’s from some of the more exotic fdm materials like ASA) is a lot like that: little by little you add more of one solution to the other and at first you don’t really notice anything (beyond the volume increase), so you keep on adding more, when you finally hit the equilibrium point the whole solution suddenly changes colors.

    In practical terms, the more you’re exposed to resin VOC’s the more you’ll burn through your buffer, once it’s gone your body will basically go into panic mode whenever it comes into contact with said material. It’s one of those things that’s high enough on the fuck around side of things that you really don’t want to find out…

    That said, welcome to 3D printing! There’s plenty of resources around, so (for the most part) if you aren’t sure about something or run into trouble, all you have to do is ask!


  • You raise a very excellent point, for what I’ve spent toying and tinkering with my OG ender 3 pro, I very easily could have bought a nice Prusa/ Bamboo/ Voron printer.

    That said, I can’t say I regret the thessian ender route either. I’ve learned so much about not just the printer itself and how it works on a fundamental level, but also how to model and design for the materials I’m working with and the capabilities of my machine I’m way more comfortable working with small electronics (wiring/ crimping/ soldering and am even flirting with PCB design) compared to when I first got into the hobby. I tend to be more of a hands on learner, so I enjoy the project printer (to an extent) and the learning experience that comes with it.

    It very much depends on what OP is looking to get out of/ do with the printer, I 100% agree if it’s more of a "I just want it to work ", a Prusa or other mid-range printer* is probably the better play than something in the budget range.

    * Depending on how OP feels about Bamboo, the A1 may be a good option on that front as well (once the teething problems get worked out)






  • One of the best pieces of advice I’ve picked up from the Internet is to never cheap out on things that connect you to the ground (tires, shoes, mattresses, chairs, etc). Theses chairs are primarily sold to business/ offices where they’re meant to be used and abused daily for years without needing to be replaced while still remaining ergonomically comfortable. That said, 1200 is the new sticker price, you can absolutely find them second hand/ refurbished/ resold for a quarter of the price. Admittedly still expensive, but very much worth it when compared to an IKEA/ office max special.

    (I may be a little biased since I daily drive a Leap V2)