the actual problem here is that OPs network is not configured correctly and that Plex detects that the physical local client is actually accessing the server from a totally other network.

Fairly common when you use docker to run Plex and have the container run in bridge mode. This will put the container in the docker network that will then be different to your local network.

Plex determines if a stream is local or remote based on the network so when your container is in bridge mode, the physical local client will be a remote connection because of the different networks.

And since remote streaming requires Plex pass since end of April, you will see this.

LAN networks is only available for plex pass users

Nice. I have a recent story about this.

Basically, we have a process to sell something that is too big, complex and extensive for smaller customers so the idea was to drastically reduce this process to be able to give smaller customers the ability to sell that process.

So, in January, I got an email with the assignment to do this. Since we don’t do it like this, I say he should submit a ticket in our tracker and plan it into a release to have some sort of structure and organisation in what is being done and when. Such a thing should also happen with our project manager because, well, he is the person managing what is being worked on so he should know what is going on and what is important. This doesn’t happen.

4 Months later, the person sending the mail asked me what the status of that is, I didn’t know because I was busy with our other stuff that actually followed our organisation.

This feature is super-duper important and already promised to some customers so it needs to happen quickly. Okay, we plan it in a release and I start working on it. The Plan was that since this was a “1 Task Process”, doing that in our existing process, wouldn’t make much sense and we decided to do this in a separate process that then relies on the codebase of our “main” process. While working on it, more and more issues popped up that made it really complicated to do it like that because our existing code just relied on a lot of things even if they are not in use. This meant that, to use it in the capacity as I needed, I would have to rip a lot of stuff out of the existing codebase and made this more commonly useable even though this wasn’t “used” in the process anyway.

Yes, that sounds weird but you need to know that this is a codebase grown over 15 years so weird things are to be expected.

I do all of that and the sales team has a meeting and I was asked if I had already something that could be presented there, which I had, sort of.

This is presented in that meeting and suddenly this is not enough. “There needs to be other places to be involved in this as well and the customer needs to be able to make changes after the fact”.

So, from the initial “1 Task process” we are now at a more complex process to handle the additional stuff of involving a separate entity of the customer, starting another process and being able to make changes to the initial variables.

I don’t necessarily have a problem with changing things, but the utter lack of thought or planning of the person submitting the feature request is what drives me nuts. I mean, you had 4 months to think about what this should do and all you could come up with were 4 bullet points that just barely resemble the current state. Adding to that, the constant emphasis on “This is important and needs to happen ASAP”. I mean, in literally every mail that person sent to me was the “this is very important, this needs to be priority”.

It is like, yeah dude, I got that the 2nd time you wrote that to me but you could have at least invested some time yourself to properly think about this more than 10 minutes. To maybe notice that what you want isn’t enough to do what you need.

It was definitely worth it for me.

I previously had a Ender 3v2 and an Ender 5 Plus and the E5P had constant issues in which I tried to upgrade it step by step to address those issues. However, never really could fix all of them. The last issues I just gave up on was the bed. While it worked fine, I never really could get a good first layer on the bed, when I calibrated the Z-offset correctly on one side, it wasn’t good on the other side because the nozzle was too far away from the bed. I rarely could get the bed mesh range under 0.4mm which was quite annoying. But smaller prints, it printed well.

Last year in October, I decided to build a Voron and got the 2.4 LDO kit for 350mm. Took a bit of time to get it all assembled and some hiccups here and there but since it is up and running there is really only one issue that I haven’t quite figured out yet (the A motor sometimes doesn’t want to turn, after re-plugging the cable and restarting, it works without issues).

But I could print PLA, ABS and ABS-GF on it so far. I am also currently building the Armor Turtle AFC (filament changer) for it.

But 770€ for a 250mm V2.4 sounds very low to me so I would assume that it is 2nd hand. This could be fine but keep in mind that the printer also could have issues, issues you might not know about where they would be coming from because you simply bought the machine as a whole. So, identifying the problem could be a bit annoying.

Other than that, I am really happy with mine, I usually get 0.1mm difference in the bed mesh range (running a voron tap as probe), the print speed is great (but I also didn’t optimise it and just used the speed settings from the default profile in Orca Slicer)

It doesn’t, even when you share the Server, your users will be able to stream remotely.

relaible!!! I want to start a print and return once it is done. Not worrying about print failures

Well, any printer will do that if you calibrate it well enough. I have seen many people not doing anything in that regard and complaining that they can’t get anything to print.

However, getting to that calibration can be easier or more involved.

Works with a good slicer. Back in the day I used PrusaSlicer with UV-tools to convert it to Anycubic fileformat.

I only used PrusaSlicer for FDM prints; for resin, I use Chitubox or, more often, Lychee Slicer. “Good” is fairly ambiguous here because what would a “good” slicer look like to you? Either of the ones I mentioned would be good and are fairly popular.

resin vat mixing (vat tilting is good enough) to prevent resins from seperating during long prints

I don’t think that most consumer resin printers have this sort of feature. The Lift and retract of the built plate should be enough to keep the resin well-mixed and any resin that is separating because of that wouldn’t be something that I would consider buying again anyway. Funnily enough, since you mentioned Anycubic Resin, this was specifically my experience with it that it easily separated. Never had this problem with other manufacturers like Elegoo or Sunlu.

at least two washing containers (first stage dirty IPA, second stage “clean” IPA)

This would be hard to get “out of the box”, but you might be able to get a replacement container for the wash station separately (at least that is what I did).

I noticed none of the printers have magnetic/spring metal build platforms. Are they outdated/no longer required?

This is mostly an upgrade that you can do to add a magnetic sheet on which you then can add this flexible built plate. This is still around like WhamBam Flex plates. I used that on two of my printers but never bothered to do that on my current printer because with the right raft and bottom exposure settings there isn’t much need to do that, also it is messier.

cleaning liquid: Is isopropanol alcohol (IPA) still the goto?

Pretty much for any “normal” resin. Water-washable resin has gotten more popular but the majority is still cleaned with more aggressive solvents like IPA.

Cure and Wash? No idea. all the solutions I have looked at seem to be still similar to the old anycubic cure and wash. The Prusa CW1 on the other hand looks like a well-thought-out solution.

I think this should be answered based on what printer you choose in the end. My first Printer was an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro with a combo wash and cure box from Anycubic. I always had to remove the models from the built plate before washing them, which made a mess and I used so many paper towels to clean that up.

With my Saturn 4 Ultra, I can just take the built plate and put it into the Wash bucket and let both the built plate and the models get clean which is so much more convenient and I have less of a mess to clean up because it is just IPA that I have to wipe up and not Resin and then clean the surface with IPA again and wipe that up too.

As for the Printer, I am pretty happy with my Saturn 4 Ultra at the moment. It is affordable and I could quickly get it to print because of the Auto levelling feature (which isn’t really auto levelling) and the integrated exposure test which is much faster than what UVTools would generate. The VAT tilt is a bit dangerous because of a potential resin leak of the release film, leaking into your printer’s internals, but it will speed up the printing process quite a bit.

The other features like the camera weren’t that interesting to me but the 16K version has, for example, a light (which the first gen was missing) so you would also be able to check the printer in a dark environment. On the other hand, the AI detection for print failures is still something I would consider a gimmick because it would only do that from one side, the side facing the camera. A failure on any other side would not be detected.

Unfortunately, I also don’t have any other experience with other brands or printers, I only ever had Elegoo printers from the Mars 2 Pro, the Original Saturn and now the Saturn 4 Ultra and was fairly happy with all of them in what they brought me.

“Smart” apparently doesn’t mean “it does things on its own” but simply “you can control it over our app”

Thanks, yeah following the voron guide was straight forward but the LDO documentation was a bit getting used to. Some things were poorly explained while others were not mentioned at all (like the LED light assembly) but by far better than having to source everything on my own.

As someone who is currently building an LDO Voron (Voron 2.4 LDO Rev. D) most of those things are already included (like the Z-end-stop, the NiteHawk and panels)

I can think of two problems:

First, not every Release Film is the same. You are talking specifically of FEP which is mostly used to describe the Release film and was commonly used for that but is the material that the Release film is made from. There are different types like the already mentioned FEP but also nFEP, PFA, ACF and probably others as well. Each of those materials has a different rigidity which would mean that they peel away from the Model sooner or later. According to this, FEP is much more flexible than PFA or ACF.

Second, the durability of the Release Film. Over time, the Release film will wear out and need to be replaced. They could become more flexible the more you use them. Cutting it too close could mean that your models will fail from one print to another.

Some other thoughts:

• How much the Release film flexes could also depend on the surface area being printed. More surface area could mean that the layer is sticking to the release film longer
• The same would apply to the Exposure rate because higher exposure rates make your layers stick more, including to your Release film
• Assembly also plays a role in this. Since you need to replace the Release film at some point, you could add more or less “slack” on the film which would throw off your previous test massively.

While I like the idea, I think it would signal a false sense of confidence in your printer because if you “dial in” your lift distance and the model then fails, people could start looking in the completely wrong direction to fix a problem. I mean, with that many variables to consider, people still download the validation matrix without adjusting their bottom and transition layers based on the description and then ask why their exposure test doesn’t work.

Oh, let me tell you about Playstation that I had the pleasure of having to deal with it.

I needed to log in to my Playstation account but it told me that my username or password was wrong. Okay, send me a reset link. I got the link and set my new password.

I use Bitwarden and my password generator is set to 32 characters by default.

I generate a new password, paste that into the new password field, click okay and everything is fine, password changed. I save that new password in my vault and go back to the login site. I use the just changed credentials: Wrong username or password.

Well, turns out that the Password reset field is limited to 30 characters but the problem is that NOWHERE is it stated that your password has a max length. Not to mention that they don’t tell you that your password was modified and cut short. The login password field, however, does allow more than 30 characters.

This means that you generate a 32-character password and paste that into the password reset field, this then gets cut short to 30 characters, click save and then use the same password on the login, which is 32 characters. This now obviously doesn’t work because those passwords aren’t the same.

Fun times. The worst part is that the first support person just went “Well, everything looks fine on our side. Sucks for you. Goodbye”.

They look so disappointed and concerned.

I tried it but it doesn’t seem to work for me correctly or maybe I am doing something wrong. I patch the YouTube app and install it but as soon as I close and open it, all the changes made by the patch are apparently gone. Shorts that are hidden on the first start after the patch are visible again, ads seem to be reduced but still happen occasionally.

I disabled the default YouTube app, gave the patched version a different name, disabled auto update, repatched it but nothing seems to stick after opening it again.

And then the whole “I have to download the apk so that I can use it” because I don’t have rooted my phone is just inconvenient.

I stick with my yt-dlp server and Plex instead.

The problem with brushing on resin is actually not that great because resin for printers will need to be cured. Unless that material is letting the UV light through, only the outer parts will get cured and hold onto the models but when you open it up again the whole middle part would be liquid resin again which stinks and is toxic.

I had this misunderstanding for quite a while myself and though that I can just weld resin party with resin together until I did that with a larger piece and it broke quite easily and seeing that the whole inside wasn’t even touched at all by the UV light.

Hence also why you should shine some UV light into a hollowed model to fully cure it.

CA/superglue should do fine if applied correctly.

I don’t know where I read it but IIRC religion is being used as a simple answer to very difficult and possibly uncomfortable questions: why are we here and what is our purpose?

It is fairly easy to believe that something, a god, created us instead of that the existence of humanity was just a fluke, a stroke of luck enabling us to evolve were we are now because it is just easier to grasp even if it is proven. That we evolved from simple beings into more complex organisms instead of just “being created”. Evolution creates so many quite difficult questions that it is easier to understand and believe that someone just wanted us to exist.

When someone is believing in a religion they also always have some form of " it won’t be over" scenario like when you die, there is nothing truly “the end”. You just won’t vanish and this can be terrifying for many because the following question could be, what sense does it make to live at all when our existence is just so insignificant in comparison to everything else?

So, in short, it is an easy too to make sense of things that almost everyone can understand it.

Unfortunately, things like this can and will be abused.

OP wants to connect a Resin print to a PLA print, not two Filament-printed models together!

Well, i mean i would be all for that but in reality it might not be that easy. It could rely on dependencies that are proprietary that cannot be shipped or provided with the project.

It could alone be that the connection is hard coded in the game itself so instead of just booting up the server and being able to play you would now have to do something to the game itself too that it finds your server. Nothing really that cannot be addressed, I mean people could do that with ragnarok online private servers but not something your normal gamer could do.

Probably depends on the background as well. They could have hardware running (multiplayer server) that gets so little activity that there is no benefit and only loses them money.

It also doesn’t look like the game has steam integration.

Connectivity or rather the lack of it…

I have a Samsung TV and recently got a new cooling fan and now when I start the fan when my TV is on, it says it detected a new device. I don’t know what my TV would want with a fan maybe control the speed for more immersion?

But there is also no way for me to disable that. I also got regular requests of my neighbor’s to connect to my TV until I disabled the notification for it. No, I couldn’t disable that my TV doesn’t even allow it to be seen, I had to enable to not automatically connect devices and disable that notifications are being shown. That thing isn’t even connected to the internet.

Depends. I recently was in that situation and it was easier and more cost-effective to just print them.

I recently bought some Lego Star Wars sets and printed out some Display stands for them but the connection between the stands and the model was expected to be a 2x4 Lego plate. I didn’t have those plates at hand so I looked online and found it from the official Lego site.

The individual “Plate 2x4” would cost 0.14EUR each. Since I needed 3 this would be 0.42EUR. But the mailing costs would be over 9EUR.

So ordering 3 of those Lego pieces would cost me almost 10 bucks. I just printed them out which worked well, they were a bit tight fit but are still holding.

But I wouldn’t necessarily say that this is a replacement for actual Lego pieces. As a quick alternative that you can’t see or that has less interaction with other pieces (doesn’t need to fit correctly on all sides) then I think this can work.