Ovens aren’t a great idea for drying filament, especially one that’s being used for food
You can use the spools box to dry the filament using the printers heated bed: https://youtu.be/WC3jvuq-uq8
Computer nerd who likes cats; https://deletecat.com
Ovens aren’t a great idea for drying filament, especially one that’s being used for food
You can use the spools box to dry the filament using the printers heated bed: https://youtu.be/WC3jvuq-uq8
The Y axis was loose on my printer, loose enough that it kept moving (slightly) to the right while printing. Taking out the 4 screws, re-aligning the axis and tightening the screws fixed this. As well as checking your nuts, check your screws too!
I would recommend the sovol sv06, it’s a great beginner printer at its price! Either that, or a Neptune 3 Pro
I would probably avoid creality’s Ender 3 series, nowadays it’s overpriced compared to other, better printers on the market. Unless you can find them for around $100~ as the other person mentioned, I probably wouldn’t buy one
SV07 is still new, it’s both an upgrade and a downgrade to the SV06. I would suggest that if you want klipper, an sv06 and an orange pi (or thin client) with kiauh may be the better option.
Haven’t heard much about the Neptune 4 besides it being a Neptune 3 pro with klipper and a big cooling fan
Tronxys Corexy machines are usually regarded as tinkerers machines. They are alright out of the box, but you can do many upgrades to make them so much better
Most people are shifting towards the AI trend instead. Read a post which somewhat describes it well, people integrate the new trends into their projects to get more investor money. Nothing looks better to investors other than ‘We have AI Blockchain nano technology behind our service’.
Last year, ‘we have blockchain’ earned lots of money. Now it’s ‘we have AI’. In both cases, the technology probably isn’t needed, it is there just to be there.
For calibrating printers, I would recommend Ellis’ guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ It covers how to calibrate your printer with popular firmware options (Marlin, Klipper and Reprapfirmware)
For CAD, a free and open source option I have used is OpenSCAD, it’s CAD with code! If this isn’t your sort of thing, you could try OnShape - it’s free with some limitations
Heavily modified Geeetech A10M - no longer prints in two colours but it’s using better quality parts than stock
MP Mini Delta V1 - I will be going down the rabbit hole of calibration and mods for this printer at some point, it isn’t great due to the areas where monoprice/malyan had cheaped out on