I can’t compare it to the cad examples but meshmixer is definitely easier to use for small stl edits than blender, especially for things like cutting and keying parts. If you are just trying to make a pin smaller or hole larger, editing the xyz of specific points in blender may be easier depending on shape. Good luck!

I was in a simiar boat, but once I started learning it really took off and I couldn’t find enough things to model/fix! I started with meshmixer, it’s pretty simplified but still somewhat powerful and I think Windows only. Once I found stuff I couldn’t do with it I switched to blender and now I’m much faster with it. I found there are some things each implements better so if having an issue I’ll switch and try something else. I highly recommend picking one and watching youtube videos specific to what you want to change in a model

Edit: you may be able to get by on some of the connectors by lowering flow too, depends on how dialed in your printer is, everyone needs different tolerances

To add, you may not need to worry too much about setting up a firewall if your machine is behind a router/gateway that also has a firewall. There are arguments both ways, I would suggest researching that some. I did it because I could so why not, but I also only have wireguard exposed publicly so it may be over kill

I too read that it didn’t work with docker but that was not my experience on Ubuntu 24.04. Maybe it’s just docker desktop but I had all sorts of other issues with docker desktop and ditched it for plain docker, using lazydocker for an interface. I think one of the issues for outgoing connections at least is that IPs for the containers can change. I don’t remember exactly what my setup is currently but you shouldn’t have an issue opening up just specific ports mapped to a container while having default deny incoming. Not specific to containers but there are a few different Linux commands to get all ports and the processes listening on them, I used them extensively to debug my firewall setup. I can’t remember them either off the top of my head but you should be able to google for your distro.

Never used dockge sorry

Somewhat off topic but I’ve been using this lately and it’s great https://github.com/jesseduffield/lazydocker. If all you want is a ui over docker this may be better than going all in on something like portainer

It’s been a while since I’ve printed but I think both my sidewinder and voron do this. I don’t remember having it after switching to abs. Painted on supports and wider extrusions helped a ton if I remember correctly. Good luck!

It could be a lot of things. Temperature is a big one, are you letting the bed heat up completely for a consistent amount of time before each print, could heat be impacting your measurements, some things measure different when heated a bit? You probably aren’t printing enclosed, but my voron for example expands upwards almost an entire layer over the first hour of printing. Is there an intermittent air flow that could be impacting how hot your bed really is? Have you verified there is no slop or backlash in your z lead screws and connections? I had decent results on my sidewinder using POM anti backlash nuts. Same for the stability of your measuring tool. Have you checked that it’s not z tilt from turning off the motors between prints?

Honestly if your going to go through all this effort to make this work, and already have a pi, I would suggest instead upgrade the control board to something with extra fan headers, led heads, etc and switch to klipper, there have to be guides out there for your specific printer

Powering the fan from gpio pins probably isn’t going to work out well either, they are 3.3v and 5v. Powering the fan from the PSU is going to be similar to powering a pi off it, I believe you should step the voltage down to what each needs, where the fan is 24v I think the pi is 5v. Your PSU is probably 115 or 220 v. For connectors I would expect to have to redo them yourself with micro fit, molex, jst or w/e you want and can get. On some of mine I just did single pin molex on the pins of the white female connector for fan headers, it doesn’t lock but it works if you don’t have a lot of movement. This page is awesome for connectors info https://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/

Per https://help.prusa3d.com/article/xbuddy-and-loveboard-electronics-wiring-mk4_413095 it looks like you dont have any fan headers, you might be able to repurpose the unused ambient sensor header but no clue sorry. You might try splicing off the part or hotend fan? If you really wanted to use the dc input you might need a voltage step down buck converter or something depending on what your PSU is putting out

You might be able to but you really shouldn’t. At the best you wouldn’t have control over fan speed. Find the wiring diagram for the board and use a fan header

Oh hey I kinda helped get this started in a very round about way! Nice to see the fluid integration, maybe if I do the mainsail one, someone else will do it a better way lol. I’ve not been printing much lately but set spoolman up a while ago on the pi running my voron and it’s been great.

I’ve had under extrusion, caused by too high speed or pressure advance settings look like this, does it show up if you slow down?

I had similar problems on my sidewinder x1 that had two lead screws, honestly I would recommend skipping the v rollers completely and go straight to something with linear rails or modding some on

I second every bit of this. My first printer was a sidewinder I upgraded like crazy and converter to klipper. Ended up just wishing I started with a corexy. Mine had a bit of a bend in the x gantry that took me forever to figure out and was not possible to compensate for. Went to a 300mm voron 2.4 afterward and have been super happy