https://hub.docker.com/r/mbixtech/observium/

Great for small and large scale networks, add devices by entering ip and snmp credentials and all done.

Add alerting if that’s your cup of tea.

Mine does.

Probably most of the builds do. But you got to keep in mind, every Voron is unique. It is not a 100-a-day from the factory kind of product.

Getting to know all the minor tweaks, the ins and outs of your device.

Every Voron is unique, so digging up a yt to solve your issue is not going to help much.

I love mine. Always fire and forget printing. My 2.4 has a chaotic lab tap, never any issues.

Printing with abs, petg and pla never fails. Quite a learning curve, but well worth it.

If you are not afraid to take it apart an reassemble, go for it.

It is ridiculous fast and probably not really smart.

But, the fact that we (Europe) have labels for the maximum speed a tire is approved for even till 300kmh, does indicate it is not abnormal.

As others already mentioned, above a certain speed, in case of an accident, you will be held more accountable.

But folks with BMW, Audi, Porsches etc. do drive serious cars. Going faster than 250 is not an issue with most of the models. The biggest challenge is to slow down from these speeds in a controlled way.

Docker host running immich amongst other containers. Backups are done nightly to a nas device on location, the immich container has a volume mount to an external SSD.

Fire: nah, won’t survive it. Planning to fix this in the next few weeks, setting up a Nas on a remote location.

Just for support purchased the ‘“license”’, entire household moved from Google photos to immich. All using wireguard with the ‘include these applications’ option. Gave them access to jellyfin and satellite receiver too, so they are very happy to keep it up and running. No complaints, immich works great.

Pretty solid how to by Louis:

https://wiki.rossmanngroup.com/wiki/Reverse_Engineering_Bambu_Connect

If it is too cold for the equipment, it is too cold for me.

This error is a nice indication for me that I need to turn up the diesel heater before starting the voron.

I totally agree with you, the wording could be more clear.

Reading this: we have enabled a way for you to financially support the continued development of Immich, ensuring the software can move forward and will be maintained, by offering a lifetime license of the software

Was enough for me to order a server license (…). I like the software and being a professional developer I totally understand you might need funds to do the job.

So this is just my €0.02 to keep the flow from caffeine to code flowing…

It is a donation. You will get a license key and when applied to your instance, it will report you are a supporter in the web interface.

For me it was a means to show some support.

Thanks for all the hard work, delivering a great piece of software!

Immich server key purchased a few weeks ago, was the least I could do.

Using the go application to import the Google takeout zip file is a really good way to improve the WAF.

Thanks!

Yes, as an alternative to klipper -this really is your end goal - use the firmware by mriscoc, it is really nice and robust.

Gives you more options and the results are better than the stock fw.

Ender. Happened back in the days with a 3v2, the stepper drivers on the original mainboard overheat, causing it to ‘miss’ steps.

Replaced the MB with an improved version, tuned the vRef and never had any issues again.

You might look into tuning the vRef for your machine.

That’s my understanding.

And I think a small fee to get out of the googlyclaws. Paying $100 once, to host immich for the family and supporting development is a no brainer to me.

But I understand not everyone has the resources or is willing to donate.

This is just the beginning…

Cars.

• mechanical, no software bugs
• physical buttons, no touch screen
• everything just worked, no need to license the heating of your chair
• freaking lane assist

You get it…

Thanks for this. Finamp looks really nice.

That is not how it is supposed to look, the end result should be at least a couple of inches wide.

Maybe you don’t need to ‘fix’ your retraction settings?

If it looks good enough, why bother?

Wasn’t aware of the test (SuperSlicer user here), and found this.

The tower has multiple notches, each one corresponding to a different retraction length. By looking at the tower after printing, you can see how each retraction length affects the print quality.

So check your surface finish and select the retraction value with the best looks.