Ender. Happened back in the days with a 3v2, the stepper drivers on the original mainboard overheat, causing it to ‘miss’ steps.
Replaced the MB with an improved version, tuned the vRef and never had any issues again.
You might look into tuning the vRef for your machine.
That’s my understanding.
And I think a small fee to get out of the googlyclaws. Paying $100 once, to host immich for the family and supporting development is a no brainer to me.
But I understand not everyone has the resources or is willing to donate.
This is just the beginning…
Cars.
You get it…
Thanks for this. Finamp looks really nice.
That is not how it is supposed to look, the end result should be at least a couple of inches wide.
Maybe you don’t need to ‘fix’ your retraction settings?
If it looks good enough, why bother?
Wasn’t aware of the test (SuperSlicer user here), and found this.
The tower has multiple notches, each one corresponding to a different retraction length. By looking at the tower after printing, you can see how each retraction length affects the print quality.
So check your surface finish and select the retraction value with the best looks.
Blowtorch will heat this up way too hot.
Try to get it to a high enough temperature to insert filament to do a cold pull and repeat…
Electrical heat gun (paint stripper) is hot enough. Gas based torches will change the stiffness of your material and you will regret it.
NetApp makes storage devices, just like Dell’s DataDomain.
Looks like the ad is referring to a ST6000NM0034, a drive from Seagate. Personally, I like to stay away from that brand as far as possible.
Have had good experiences with WD.
Vlans firewall rules and something to route between the different networks.
This can all be achieved with pretty much every Linux installation.
Easydns.ca, no privacy issues. Nothing about me personally in the who’s db (.net tld)
Depending on the size, but I’ve had success with super glue and baking soda.
https://www.instructables.com/Baking-Soda-Reinforcing-Glue-Repair/
Ender 3v2 as starter here, doubled the price with a lot of upgrades/modifications. Got it running rock solid with Klipper and a microswiss direct drive.
Grabbed the piggy bank and am now really satisfied with my voron 2.4.
But very pleased with the fact I started with the Ender and got to learn then basics.
As far as I can suggest anything; start with something with a large installed base, so it will be easy to find answers or (hardware) solutions to your problems. I can tell you, the installed base for Ender is large, but the quality of the hardware, is what you pay. And they are cheap…
Still testing and fiddling, but I’m using the forgejo-runner. Renovate is just another repository, with a workflow to get it started:
on:
schedule:
- cron: '5 2 * * *'
- cron: '5 14 * * *'
jobs:
build:
runs-on: docker
container:
image: renovate/renovate:37.140-full
steps:
- name: Checkout
uses: actions/checkout@v3
- name: Run renovate
env:
PAT: ${{ secrets.PAT }}
GITHUB_COM_TOKEN: ${{ secrets.GITHUB }}
run: |
echo "Running renovate"
cd ${GITHUB_WORKSPACE}
renovate --token ${PAT}
The renovate image has been pulled by hand and the forgejo-runner will happily start the image. Both PAT and GITHUB secrets are configured as ‘action secrets’ within the renovate repository.
Besides the workflow, the repository contains renovate.json and config.js, so renovate has the correct configuration.
Absolutely!
Running local, self hosted forgejo with a few runners.
Now my code is neatly checked with pre-commit and linters, build when new tags are pushed, renovate is scheduled every 24 hours to check for new releases of stuff etc.
Just a few containers and a happy user :-)
In run a personal instance of forgejo, love it.
Everything I want regarding version control and workers. And more lightweight on the frontend side.
Maybe -before making the jump to klipper-, use the ProfessionalFirmware, as Myers was no longer active the last time I checked.
That firmware is a nice improvement over the original, but running Klipper will really improve speed and quality.
Sorry for the reddit link, but this is a really cheap hack, to get a better frame.
Print some parts, add nuts and bolts and use a proper method to adjust the frame.
Other modifications:
Yes, as an alternative to klipper -this really is your end goal - use the firmware by mriscoc, it is really nice and robust.
Gives you more options and the results are better than the stock fw.