So I did some testing with greentec (high temp bio filament) and before i tried anything I did all the usual calibrations: 21 m3/s max flow; 1,005 flow factor; 99,73% xy and 100,27% z shrinkage; low to medium-high cooling; …
due to the recommendation from the manufacturer i started with lowish bed temps of 47C, Nozzle temp of 217C, 1 slow layer, nocooling on first layer and a flow of 17 m3/s - prints without brims failed. ramped up the bedtemps to 65C - the same prints stuck well without brim. tried a larger, more infill multipart print: everything warped as if it was abs…
parts that printed well and behaved as intended:
- snap in place plugs / adjustable flow restrictors for ventilation holes in finnish sauna
- bakelite bed spacer holder (printerforants/micon+ formbot kit specific)
- fanshroud for my Ender3V3 (reprinted my upgraded one as petg was obviously starting to deform after 60h of use)
will try 75C bed, +5C nozzle temp, 16 m3/s, lower cooling 17% -> 7% turning it off if layertime is > 50s, force overhang cooling 100% -> 85% fan speed, 3 slow layers, and no cooling for the first two layers… maybe i’ll add a brim as well, as failures are quite pricy when needing 350g and price/kg is 51,3EUR
do you think it is a good plan or are these too many changes at once? i’m not sure if lowering or hightening the nozzle temp, will be better, any idea?
do you have any experience with greentec on unenclosed bedslingers or otherwise?
Thank you that’s good insight! I also thought that maybe it would behave more like pla in the cooling and solidifying regards. Changed PLA manifucturer. Settings were a bit too hot for the new spool and had warping on the first larger part.
GreenTec (basic) is like a not so stiff first iteration of their special material mix. It has a high notched and unnotched impact resistance, lower youngs modulus, lower softening temp, and more elongation at break than GTP. You can think of it like the difference of PETG to PET where PETG is the basic Greentec.