https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKrDUnZCmQQ
What if your parts just fit—every single time—no matter what printer, material, or slicer settings you use?
In this video, we break down the proven design principles that eliminate the guesswork from tolerances in 3D printing. You’ll learn how to design press-fits, snap-fits, lids, and interlocking parts that are robust to shrinkage, color variation, and machine quirks. Rounded corners, chamfers, compliant features, and grip fins — we cover it all and show why designing for process is more reliable than tweaking slicer settings.
By the end, you’ll know exactly how to model your parts for perfect, repeatable fit — anywhere, anytime, on any printer.
I’m still trying to get the hang of that sort of fit. I saw it in a video about crush ribs but it didn’t work when I tried it. Will keep at it until I figure it out, though.
Just do small test prints first. For a table saw feather board in PLA this worked but it is length and material dependant.
Calipers are consistent for the 2.6mm but too dead of a battery to charge the capacitive sensor past around 50mm so the scale shows ~63mm long. I think the optimum angle is around 30° but don’t quote me. I just imported an image of another feather board and used it to get basic working dimensions. You only need to know 1 measurement in a flat image in CAD to calibrate the size for use in the background to draw your sketches on top of. With a table saw feather board, you know the slot dimensions. You could easily screenshot the video’s sketch of the feather pattern here, import that and make a copy at any scale in FreeCAD. Mango Jelly has YT vids about this if you need them.
Try starting with a 0.2-0.3mm interference for crush ribs and print a small test piece first - I’ve found the key is getting the right wall thickness so they flex just enogh without breaking.