I picked this printer up with a bunch of filament for $60. The build plate was really loose so I took it apart and found that the bearings are loose within the plastic part. Not really sure what to do here. I might epoxy the bearings in place. I saw that there is a y axis linear rail upgrade for $40 but that seems like a waste of money.

  • elucubra@sopuli.xyz
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    2 days ago

    Epoxy can be a bit of a crap shoot with plastics. It works wonderfully for some, a not at all for others. I have worked a lot with epoxy and plastics are always a “try somewhere else in the part” thing. Also, if there is grease on the part" forget it. Even with epoxy especially formulated for plastics.

    If all you want is to use the epoxy as a filler, it may work.

    I have searched aliexpress, and there are kits for around 17€. I don’t know what the shipping and customs are where you live.

    • PriorityMotif@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 day ago

      Ultimately I used a gel style superglue to fill in the gap and it worked. Even if it doesn’t bond to the metal it’s just there as a filler. I can’t find a replacement part or an stl. There’s zero play now and I’m getting good prints. I see a lot of other issues happening long before the bearings go bad.

  • ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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    5 days ago

    When fixing a 3D printer always go for the proper solution right away, because you will eventually get tired of the wonky half-assed solution you’ve spent hours or days getting to perform properly and just go for the proper solution anyway. Save yourself the frustration, time, and wasted filament in failed prints and do it right the first time.

  • MachineFab812@discuss.tchncs.de
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    6 days ago

    Epoxy isn’t cheap, unless you have it on-hand already or buy in-bulk. So you can burn ten-or-so-dollars on an epoxy fix that might or might not work as desired, or $40 on an upgrade that should.

    That said, are you sure the printer is otherwise in good working order? Have you tried shimming that bearing and running a test print?

      • MachineFab812@discuss.tchncs.de
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        5 days ago

        Resin isn’t that cheap either. Then there’s shipping. That said, if shimming works for test-prints, it may work for this. Personally, I can’t believe there’s not a wedge-centering end-cap or set-screws for dialing in the centering of the bearing just-so, but I’m no expert on this printer.

        • Bluewing@lemmy.world
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          5 days ago

          The bearing is supposed to self center on the shaft with the fitment between the bearing and the shaft. I can’t imagine the pain of trying to manually adjust those very tight tolerance parts for the perfect alignment. Far better to make the housing the bearing goes into correctly from the start.

          • MachineFab812@discuss.tchncs.de
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            5 days ago

            If the bearing were loose on the shaft, this would be a different conversation entirely.

            If adjustment/refinement of the fit in the housing were out of the question, it shouldn’t be made out of plastic, but even in the world of metal-cutting machine tools, adjustment is often neccessary, and if a shim, spacer or set-screw does the job, its what is done.

            Meanwhile, my own suggestion was, first, the upgrade kit.

  • B0rax@feddit.org
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    6 days ago

    Try to somehow fix it in place, shim it for example. See if that works for now. When you got the printer printing at least a little, print a replacement part.